THE EARNEST TRAVELER
Staying on Cumberland Island comes down to three very different choices: camp under the live oaks, splurge on the island's one historic inn, or base on the mainland and visit by day. Each shapes the trip completely.
Camping on the Island
For most overnighters, camping is the way. Sea Camp, near the dock, is the easy choice — about $22 a night, with restrooms, cold showers, and drinking water, set under a live-oak canopy. Stafford Beach (about $12) is a few miles up-island, and remote wilderness sites sit on the wild north end. All are reserved in advance, with a seven-night limit; you pack in everything and pack out everything.
The Greyfield Inn
The island's only lodging is the Greyfield Inn, an all-inclusive Carnegie mansion (rates from around $825) — the luxury option, with meals, naturalists, and bikes included. See the Luxury guide for the full picture. It's the only way to sleep on Cumberland in comfort.
Mainland St. Marys
If you'd rather not stay on the island at all, base in St. Marys on the mainland — a small, walkable waterfront town with inns, B&Bs, and restaurants, right by the ferry dock. Do the island as one or two day trips and sleep with running water and a restaurant nearby.
Which to Choose
Camp if you want the island at dawn and dusk when the horses roam and the day-trippers are gone; choose the Greyfield for a special-occasion splurge; base in St. Marys for comfort and flexibility. There's no wrong answer — just very different trips.
There's no bridge — the only way over is the ferry from St. Marys, and it's capped (about 145 seats, ~300 people allowed on the island at once), so reserve ahead and it does not take cash. There are no stores, food, or water for sale on the island (outside the Greyfield Inn), so bring all the water, food, and supplies you'll need for the day.
The magic of Cumberland happens after the last ferry leaves and before the first one arrives — empty beaches, active horses, total quiet. If you can swing a night (camp or Greyfield), the island becomes a different, better place.
The island campgrounds, the inn, and the mainland gateway.