The Best Idea America Ever Had
In 1872, the U.S. government set aside Yellowstone as the first national park in the world — the idea that land this extraordinary should belong to everyone, not just the wealthy few who could afford to own it. That idea grew into a system of 63 national parks covering 85 million acres. Great Smoky Mountains is the crown jewel by one measure: more people visit it each year than any other national park in the country.
Nearly 13 million visitors in a typical year. And yet most of them never leave the main roads. The park is 522,000 acres — the size of a small country. Walk 20 minutes off any trailhead and the crowds disappear completely.
- ✓ No Entrance Fee — Ever # — Great Smoky Mountains is the only major national park in the United States that has never charged an entrance fee and is legally prohibited from doing so by the terms of its founding deed. No pass required. Just drive in. This is a bigger deal than it sounds — Yellowstone costs $35 per vehicle. The Smokies costs nothing.
- ✓ Clingmans Dome # — At 6,643 feet, the highest point in the Smoky Mountains and the highest point on the entire Appalachian Trail. The observation tower at the top gives 360-degree views into seven states on a clear day. The paved trail from the parking area is steep — half a mile up — but entirely doable. No fee beyond the parking area, which is included in the park's free admission. The road closes in winter (December through March).
- ✓ Cataloochee Valley — Elk Meadow # — Free, remote, and one of the best wildlife-watching experiences in the eastern United States. The NPS reintroduced elk to the Smokies in 2001 and the herd now numbers over 200 animals. Cataloochee Valley on the North Carolina side is where they graze openly in the meadows — especially at dawn and dusk. The dirt road in keeps casual visitors out. Bring binoculars and arrive early.
- ✓ Newfound Gap & Appalachian Trail Access # — Newfound Gap sits at 5,046 feet right on the Tennessee-North Carolina state line and is the most accessible high-elevation viewpoint in the park — drive-up, no hike required. From the parking area you can step onto the Appalachian Trail and walk in either direction. The views of the ridgeline in both directions are some of the most dramatic in the eastern US. Free.
- ✓ Frontcountry Campgrounds — $30 to $36/night # — The park has 10 developed campgrounds with over 1,000 sites. Elkmont (near Gatlinburg) and Smokemont (North Carolina side) are the most popular — both are beautifully wooded with easy trail access. Book through recreation.gov well in advance for summer and fall. Shoulder season (May and late September) often has same-week availability at the same price.
- ✓ Alum Cave Trail # — Free to hike. Widely considered one of the best trails in the entire national park system. The first two miles alone pass Arch Rock, Alum Cave Bluff (a massive overhanging cliff face), and mountain views that open up as you gain elevation. Continue past the bluff and you reach the summit of Mount LeConte — one of the highest peaks in the park. The full round-trip to the summit is 11 miles but the first four miles are accessible to anyone in reasonable shape.
- ✓ Backcountry Camping — $4/person/night # — The park has over 100 backcountry campsites and shelters accessible only on foot. The permit fee is $4 per person per night — one of the most affordable backcountry systems in any major national park. Reserve through the park's online permit system. This is the best way to experience the Smokies with genuine solitude.
- ✓ Cades Cove Wildlife Loop # — Free. An 11-mile one-way loop road through an open valley that was settled in the early 1800s — the original cabins and grist mill are still standing. White-tailed deer, black bears, wild turkeys, and coyotes all use this valley regularly. Go at first light to beat both the crowds and the heat. The loop is closed to vehicles on Wednesday and Saturday mornings for cyclists and pedestrians only.
- ✓ Pigeon River Whitewater Rafting # — The Pigeon River runs along the northern edge of the park near the Tennessee border, offering Class III and IV rapids through a mountain gorge. Multiple outfitters run guided half-day and full-day trips — no experience needed for the Class III section. One of the most popular adventure activities in the Smokies gateway area.
- ✓ Horseback Riding — Inside the Park # — The park operates five horse camps and has over 550 miles of trails open to horses. Guided horseback rides are available through concession-operated stables at Smokemont, Cades Cove, Sugarlands, and Smoky Mountain Riding Stables. Rates vary by ride length and stable.
- ✓ Bryson City — NC Gateway Town # — The quieter, less commercial North Carolina gateway to the Smokies. Bryson City has good independent restaurants, the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad for a scenic excursion, and significantly less traffic than Gatlinburg on the Tennessee side. A solid mid-range base camp for exploring the NC side of the park — lodging options run $80 to $180 per night at local inns and motels.
- ✓ LeConte Lodge — $132/adult/night (meals included) # — The most remote lodge in the eastern United States. Sitting at 6,360 feet on the summit of Mount LeConte, it is accessible only on foot — the shortest route in is 5.5 miles one way. There are no roads, no electricity, and no running water. What you get: a cabin bed, breakfast and dinner included, and views that no hotel in the Smokies can match. Reservations open in October for the following year and sell out within hours. This is a bucket-list experience that costs $132 per adult per night with all meals.
- ✓ Blackberry Farm — Walland, Tennessee # — A Relais & Châteaux property on 4,200 acres at the edge of the park — consistently ranked among the finest resort experiences in the United States. Farm-to-table cuisine from their own working farm, guided fly fishing, naturalist programs, and rooms that look out over the Smoky Mountain ridgeline. This is the category of property where guests don't really leave the resort grounds because the property itself is the destination.
- ✓ How to Actually Get LeConte Lodge Reservations # — Reservations open in mid-October each year for the following spring through fall season. They sell out within the first hour — often within minutes for popular dates. Set a calendar reminder and be at your computer when they open. The lodge website also maintains a cancellation list. If you miss opening day, check back regularly — cancellations do come available throughout the season.
Pro Tips for the Smokies
Gear Worth Having for the Smokies
More National Park Guides Coming
The America's Best Idea series is working through all 63 national parks — one park at a time. Subscribe on YouTube and follow along.
Subscribe on YouTube →